Akkun’s FOCUS Vol.1

You will take a local train from Kyoto, then Osaka subway, Nankai express train, a cable car, finally a bus to get there, but it is worth it! Mt. Koya is a 900m highland, protected by eight peaks just like a lotus flower.

During your stay, you are going to see that you are getting healthier both mentally and physically among the air and warm people of Mt. Koya.

Mt. Koya is the centre of esoteric Buddhism. But you do not have to know it to enjoy the place fully. Ignorance seems to be much better than a greedy attitude on earthly matters, trying to match the information they gathered previously through Internet. Just stretch your arms and legs, then relax. Walk as you please. There are not any orders about what to visit. Listen to your inner voice to create your own story in Mt. Koya.

Mt. Koya is suitable for mature travellers who can entertain themselves. If you know who you are and what makes you happy, you will find your own distinctive way to know the place.

When you take a bus, a cable car, an express train, the Osaka subway, then a local train to come back to Kyoto, you will deeply miss Mt. Koya for a quite personal reason.

Just bring your little tired spirit to Mt. Koya anytime when you are ready.

Kumano calls you when the time comes. It is not you that decides to visit Kumano Kodo. 

I had not been invited for a long time, until an emergency call to my cell phone which told me to come right away to guide a group. The group was not so happy about the trip supported by a long experienced and intelligent guide. I was extremely exhausted right after a Nakasendo tour, another historical trail, of two weeks. However, I went to Kumano immediately with my whole guiding gear.

It was just an enjoyable walking tour after all for all of us. We talked and joked a lot on the way while walking. When the clients arrived at Kyoto after the pilgrimage tour, they were certain that they were reborn in Kumano Kodo as it has always been said. I also felt that my fatigue of the previous tour was entirely gone. Was this thanks to the Kumano Kodo?

The whole area, from Takijiri to Hongu shrine, then Shingu to Nachi shrine, is a natural mandala to show the balance of universe to all the visitors. The scenery, sound, wind and people show us the fundamental, simple meaning of life. We live to love.

A lady in the tour group asked me,

“Where is your happy smile coming from? What’s the secret?”

It must be Kumano magic that you too can also enjoy fully when you finally come here!

 Food must be a big factor when you travel in Japan. Japanese cooking requires using fresh seasonal ingredients without adding too much to it. “Shun,” which means the best timing of the season to savour vegetables, fish and fruits and all the ingredients, is considered to be the most important element in it. 'Shun' has fostered variations of delicate Japanese cuisine that you will be able to enjoy when you come.

Mr. Dai Sekiya opened his restaurant in Gion known as Geisha district, or 'Geiko' more properly, in 2018. He is an absolute expert who knows this Shun of all the ingredients and provides outstanding and artistic combination of dishes in front of you. What makes Dai special is that he is doing his work just like easy daily chores. There might be many top chefs who are proud of their technique or special background to become famous figures, and try to boast of it. Dai’s approach is the opposite. He considers that his presentation is nothing new, nothing special. He says that he likes cooking very much, that’s all. His work shows it to you!

Here is the magical 'kaiseki', Japanese traditional course menu, thanks to which I have extended my life several years by enjoying it. As a starter, I opened a persimmon and found persimmon salad with mashed tofu and flower buds that woke up my stomach gently for the next one. Then in front of me was a plate of chestnut, ginkgo nuts, Matsutake mushrooms, sweet potatoes with a bit of simmered fish. At the time, I was surely in the middle of the autumn forest by a comfortable stream. Dai showed me two river smelts swimming to give me time for a short prayer to them. Fish appeared later but were not dead, still alive! It does not mean half-cooked and alive. Totally cooked still alive. Have a look at the picture! Before you believe that you must be in paradise, you will come across sashimi right in season, a subtle taste Japanese truffle Matsutake and conger soup with squeezed citrus juice, just a little steamed sticky rice with chestnuts, the best tempura in your life, and another white meat fish that you cannot tell its name but is awfully delicious with various condiments. This will tempt you to order another bottle of best sake in this restaurant! Kaiseki always ends with a little bit of rice and soup with pickles. It is like a period of a sentence. Dai places this period at the right time in the right way. I had not known the taste of rice, taro, kelp and salt was this gorgeous. 

His dessert has become the prologue of your next visit to Gion SEKIYA . You always find “Shun” in it. It is not heavy at all, just right and tasty which makes you totally happy. I come to see him and find myself in Gion SEKIYA, not just to eat something delicious, but to live better and become happier in future!

In Japan, people welcome spring by conducting a unique ritual called 'Setsubun'. The date is around the 3rd or 4th of February, according to the Chinese ancient calendar. It was on the 4th of February this year. On this day, the spring eve, the whole town must be purified by roasted soybeans! In Kyoto, this ritual is considered much more important than other cities in Japan,  because of its background as an ancient capital. Therefore, this year people had been waiting for its recovery after having skipped this important ritual for two consecutive years, due to the coronavirus situation.

Let’s go and enjoy Setsubun in Kyoto together. You must dress warmly with gloves, scarf, sweater, and down jacket. Setsubun is usually very cold, ironically, even though it is the spring eve. The first destination for us is the Kitano Ten’mangu Shrine. The time will be around noon.

You will see many taxis in front of the gate, expecting to be busy taking Setsubun passengers. The precinct is rather crowded with visitors already. In front of the stage, you see some people, standing and waiting. We are going to join them. Little by little, more people come and stand here, then before 1:00 p.m. we will be completely packed in a crowd like sardines. The ritual starts with beautiful Geiko & Maiko dancing. Then comical traditional drama named Kyogen follows. These are only the opening performances. What’s the main programme? Of course, the throwing roasted soybeans show! All the dancers and actors appear and simply scatter beans to us! Catch them!! They are in a little paper bag. If you are lucky, you will get a lucky card which will provide you a happy present, such as a beautiful bookmark or a design file and so forth. You are supposed to eat soybeans as the same number as your age. If it is too much, then you can cheat it. But remember, it promises you longevity!

It has not finished yet. We will go on to another Buddhist temple next. Get ready! We will walk about half an hour to the east. You can find the similar crowd here as Kitano Ten’mangu shrine. If you care for sake, you can sip some for free. Buddha buys it for you. When you are getting happier and warmer, the announcement teaches us that this temple is the only structure which survived a horrible Kyoto war in the 15th century. No other structures date back to that time, even if you have seen other beautiful and old buildings in Kyoto. Secure your standing position in front of the stage to enjoy the dancing and comical drama. During the drama, all the devils are scared away, not by nuclear bombs but by peaceful roasted soybeans! Then comes the 'Mame maki', which is the 'scattering beans' ritual. Do you think you have gotten enough beans? In this temple, the Senbon Shakado, you will receive peanuts for a change. 

Across Kyoto, you can find other versions of Setsubun rituals like this on spring eve.

I hope you enjoyed it! The next morning, we cook soybean rice seasoned with a little soy sauce and sake. Soybeans become soft and tasty in this seasonal and festive rice. This is as you remember the first day of spring of the year. While we eat this soybean rice, we believe all the evil spirits and ailments are gone and the real, warm spring time is coming with a fresh hope very soon!

Do you need art every day? Probably not. Art might be something you think of sometimes when you have extra time on your day off. However, here is some artwork that you should consider keeping near you anytime to comfortably be yourself every day!

Roppu uses Japanese traditional techniques of calligraphy and woodblock printing in a quite modern way to create his work. His art lets you know who you are, to make your life easier and happier.  

This Zen and Four seasons composition panels are made for his very important friends. Usually, Roppu cannot create things without meeting the future owner of the artwork. At least he wants to talk to him/her, or listen to the person’s story. Roppu would like to know the owner of his art deeply as well as the place where he/she plans to put them. Then Roppu reads books, travels, and meditates to put his design together on board, paper, and textile. This time, the owners were already his close friends, so he started by reading Zen books and took long time to be enlightened. He was not enlightened so easily. Always, the idea suddenly comes from the clear blue sky. It came when Roppu listened to classical music. When it comes, his two hands are not enough to follow his ideas. He needs one hundred! You will see the result. 

Once you have Roppu ART in your room, you find you cannot live without it. How come? Since Roppu knows what’s indispensable in your life, and who must be with you as an artist.